Jean-Pierre Braganza’s AW13 collection was so packed that guests who couldn’t fit into Somerset House’s main show space were invited to watch from the private cinema next door, moi included. It seemed to work in my favour though as it meant I got a great unimpaired view of Braganza’s mystical, muted collection whilst listening to a very cool soundtrack.
Berganza’s AW13 collection ‘Starkonnen’ references the menacing yet elegant Harkonnen family in the sci-fi novel Dune, one of the designer’s inspirations for this latest collection along with divine geometrical symbolism. This foreboding power came across in the catwalk through the strong, clean cut, geometrical tailoring which was predominantly grey and monochrome with splashes of peach and burgundy – something that wouldn’t look out of place in a CEO’s office.
The sacred geometry was reflected in the triangular designs on the dresses, the clean-cut collars, the straight lines down the front of the shirts and the recurring hand drawn circular print that repeatedly appeared. Other designs included digital prints of grey, muted landscapes that appeared on dresses as well as ornate, intricate prints that looked almost like bones or feathers. These were all teamed with chunky bold necklaces and strappy colour block heels, whilst the make-up created dark feline eyes with sleek poker straight hair that formed a little loop at the back of the head.
Braganza notes how he envisages his designs being worn by strong, sexy women and this collection with its muted, sombre colour scheme, statement coats, belted sharp tailoring and sophisticated prints may just very well appeal to these women.
February 15, 2013
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